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Magical Manas

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Manas – The Land of Big Five

Manas is the land of big five – Tiger, Elephant, Rhino, Wild Water Buffalo and Leopard along with a host of bird species including critically endangered Bengal Florican. The river Manas with its distributaries, the Beki and Hakua, flows through the Park. Other smaller streams include Jongrong, Gyati and Garuchara. Against the backdrop of the Eastern Himalayas lies a grassland habitat of unmatched wilderness.

Manas is the home of a maximum number of endangered species from India as listed in the IUCN Red Book. Little wonder then, that Manas was chosen by UNESCO to be a World Heritage site.

Manas Mania Begins:

In the month of March 2019, I headed for Manas. I drove from Coochbehar – a district town on the border of Bengal and Assam. The dry spell had already started and the forest is devoid of greenery, it’s a good time to visit Manas. This was my second visit to this virgin grassland. My earlier visit was in the month of October 2018. Manas is about 3 hrs drive from Coochbehar.

By the time I reached Manas, it was already dark. There are few resorts with basic amenities near Manas National Park entrance. I checked in at “Florican Cottage”. “Florican Cottage” is run by an NGO called Manas Ever Welfare Society (MEWS), and all members are locals.

I realized the need for a rejuvenating bath and a bit of rest. I went off to meet with my old friends- Sukleshwar, Bubul and Thapa. We had a brief conversation and I requested Sukleshwar to be our guide for tomorrow. Sukleshwar is an avid birder and with sound knowledge about the avian life of Manas.

As night falls the sound of the jungle became more intriguing. Crickets, nightjars and fireflies added to the beauty of the place. With the aroma of Assam Tea and the sound of the jungle, I was lulled to sleep.

Manas Jungle Safari: Full Day

We drove into the park with the first lights of the sun accompanied by Suleshwar – my guide, an armed forest guard and of course the jeep driver. For safari, we opted for Bansbari or Central Range of the park. We took the track through Buraburijhar Road to Kuribeel Camp to Uchila Road to Roisingla Road to Mathanguri Camp. Just as we crossed the main gate, we were greeted by a Hog Deer or Pada. We took a few photographs and drove towards Kuribeel area of the park in search of critically endangered Bengal Florican.

Bengal Florican : The Treasure of Manas

From January onwards as the grass is burnt by Forest Officials of Manas which also coincides with the mating season of Bengal Florican, it is easier to detect the male during the breeding time as it becomes conspicuous and indulges in spectacular aerial displays above the grasses and bushes. While male Bengal Floricans are easier to detect during the breeding season, females are very shy and cryptic, and mostly keep themselves to tall grass patches where their plumage merges perfectly making them very difficult to detect and observe. There is an anti-poaching camp at Kuribeel. We had the sight of a sole male Bengal Florican.

Birds of Manas

An immense variety of insects, butterflies and birds are found in Manas. We saw birds like Great Pied Hornbills, Rosy Minivet, Scarlet Minivet, Stonechat, Pygmy Woodpecker, Lineated Barbet, Common Kingfisher, River Lapwing, Hawk Eagle, Serpent Eagle and other bird species. I managed to click a few of those.

We drove into the Garuchara riverbed at noon. The stream has dried up, only River Lapwings could be seen, scanning the river bed in search of food. The heat was scorching and we decided to take rest and have light refreshments. At the time of return, we saw a couple of Samber Deer, which rushed deep into the forest at the sound of our vehicle.

Mathanguri Camp: Cynosure of Manas

We headed for Mathanguri Camp. There is a forest bungalow at Mathanguri. It is a 130-year-old bungalow. Our first Prime Minister Mr Jawahar Lal Nehru also had stayed at this place. The bungalow is on a hillock. From the bungalow, we have a panoramic view of the park. With the gruelling sound of the Manas River, Royal Manas in the territory Bhutan on the other of the river, river bed frequented by animals makes Mathanguri most sought after tourist attraction of Manas.

As we reached Mathanguri, four of us were very hungry. We had a veg lunch at Mathanguri. Lunch is basic- Rice, Dal, Bhaji and Sabji. It costs Rs 120/- per meal. We decided to wait of a while, and proceed from Mathanguri at about 3.00 pm to enhance sighting chances.

Tuskers of Manas

After a while we drove from Mathanguri, we saw an elephant family busy grazing. Sighting of wildlife at Manas is not very frequent and regular but the when they make an appearance, it is up and close. The elephant family was very co-operative; it came so close that my 200-500 mm lens at 200mm was long enough for the subject; I really had to go back a long way to get a decent frame. 70-200 mm would have been good or wider lens would be great for a habitat shot.

The family grazed for a while and walked into a mud pit and the entire family enjoyed a mud bath. The tusker(male) came out first from the mud pit, scanned the entire surroundings and slowly crossed the road like a king. The mother and the calf followed the footsteps of the father. It was indeed a pleasure to capture such moments.

We drove towards Buraburi Watchtower. On the way, we were lucky to found the “Baya Ganesh”. The tusker with only the left tooth and is locally called the “Baya Ganesh”. The power and elegance of its movement along the grassland with beautiful evening golden light on it was a treat for the eyes.

Buraburi Watchtower

By the time we reached Buraburi watchtower, it already dark. As usual, Buraburi never disappoints, there were an elephant herd, a male gaur and a rhino with a calf at Buraburi. What more can we expect…but maybe this was the day for us. As were busy watching the drama and pressing the shutter, an elephant with a baby crossed the road behind us. Sukleshwar was quick to spot it. First time I saw a baby elephant sucking the tits of its mother in wild- an epitome of the beautiful bond shared by the mother and the child.

Till sundown, we were at the park. My body was exhausted but my soul fully contended.

We returned back to the resort at 6.30 pm. Took bath refreshed with strong Assam Tea and snacks. Said customary goodbye to – Sukleshwar, Thapa and Bubul and left for Coochbehar.

A wildlife experience I will cherish for life and will surely come back to Manas – for its clarion call which I cannot deny.

Spotlights

Railhead – Nearest railhead is Barpeta Road. Manas is about 1 hr drive from Barpeta Road.

Accommodation

  • Mathanguri Upper and Lower Bungalow. For reservations and more information contact:Field Directo, Manas Tiger Projects, P.O. Barpeta Road, Assam. Tel.: 03666-32749.
  • Few resorts are there near the Manas National Park entrance.

Best time to visit – October to April

Attractions/ Things to Do

  • Jeep/Elephant Safari.
  • Birding.
  • River Rafting on Manas.
  • Nature walk.

Things to carry– Govt. ID proofs in original, Binoculars and Essential medicine.

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(1) Comment

  1. N. Ganguly

    Along with Manas, dzire to see Chinajhar off bismuri crossing on highway.
    Pl guide in this respect.

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